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Washable British Wool: Part 1

Published by louise

When knitting for friends and loved ones it is often difficult to please all the people all of the time. The one thing I get asked for when knitting for others, particularly for kids, is, “can you make it in something I can put in the washing machine?”

Now, I am not a huge fan of acrylic wool – one reason for why shall become clear – but mainly I just prefer working with wool and the finished fabric wool produces. However, 100% wool can be difficult to care for and so I have been on the hunt for wool you can wash along with your usual load.

You may often see the term superwash when buying wool. This is a process – either an acid bath or a special coating – which stops the wool from being able to felt. Generally ball bands of such yarns will tell you to use a gentle wool cycle on your machine, but often many sellers of this type of treated yarn will advise hand-washing. I wonder if this is more to do with the hand-dyed nature of some wools, but it could also be that it is the nature of wool to full given enough heat and agitation.

So, right off the bat, we can safely assume that most machine-washable wool is not going to be organic. It has been treated, or is blended with a synthetic fibre. I say most, because recently I was assured that pure alpaca yarn can be washed in the machine too. Perhaps that is a test for another day, but right now I want to focus on those which state “machine washable” on the ball band.

As I write this, I have not washed any of the wools – these are the unwashed swatches and by the end of the blog they will be going in the machine!

The first wool I swatched up is Jarol British Aran. Spun at Yorkshire mill Laxtons, this is 100% Masham wool which comes in a healthy 100g/ 175 metre ball and costs around £6 It comes in a range of natural colours & marls.

First impressions: it is a soft yarn of two loosely spun plies, which is a little splicey when knitting, but the knitted fabric is lovely, drapey and has a slight lustre. It has a woolly halo, so I think when washed it may pil a little- but which pure wool doesn’t do this a bit? Coveting hats and scarves knit in this!

Another washable wool I found is a British DK from June Onigbanjo, which is pictured here in colourway fern. It is worsted spun, says suited to the machine’s 30 degree cycle and is priced £3 for a 50g/112 metre ball.

First impressions: a very impressive yarn. It knits up smoothly and has a lovely stitch definition. I think this one will wash very well.

After finding some pure wools it was also important to find wools that have been blended with acrylic. Now, I take my research on your behalf quite seriously. I emailed quite a few of the UK yarn manufacturers who produce acrylic wool to ask if any of their products contained British wool, or were spun in the UK…

…I am still awaiting replies! Whether they are too embarrassed to admit they have none or few yarns with British fibres or do not spin in the UK , or they have rubbish admin people (perish the thought!, says this admin gal) I don’t know, but I did find from internet searching a couple of wools which are acrylic and UK wool blends.

Woolcraft have a yarn which is 60% British wool – I think that is pretty unique, actually. Most blends have very small amounts of actual wool, so this was a real delight to find. A BUMPER 500g/1000 metre monster ball costs around £15. I bought mine on ebay, but there are several stockists if you look on the internet.

First impression: a very woolly feel. It’s soft and plump and, like the others knits with a really nice pronounced stitch. I am already imagining making some kids clothes with this wool.

Another “blend” I found was from an ebay shop Edge Fold Wools who buy their wool and wool blends direct from the mill. The one I chose is a DK, which was described as a British wool with acrylic. It cost £1.87 , comes in 50g cakes and is described as “not the softest wool”.

Firstly, let me say that when you buy from a seller on sites like Ebay remember to read the descriptions and if you have any questions then ask. I did email the seller to ask which British mill the wool comes from and if they knew the breed. I did not receive a reply. However I decided to try a wool anyway and chose one which hit the bases – machine washable, acrylic and wool blend. I was not sure from the description if the wool is British, the mill is British or both, but “British” was how the yarn was described.

First impressions: Scratchy! this is the kind of acrylic wool I do not like. The kind that hurts to knit with!

I am not sure what the wool to acrylic ratio is, but I am guessing there is very little wool in it. When I am not sure if a yarn is all wool I burn the end of the wool (BE CAREFUL OF FIRE, PLEASE!). If there is wool present it singes and there is a scent of burnt hair. When I burned this it melted entirely and smelled of plastic.

Still, the “British” part could refer to the mill, so I knit it up and we shall see the washed result later.

Again, I must say if you are buying wool from a seller and it has no band, or the details surrounding its origin are scant then do not be afraid to ask. Knitters are nothing if not discerning when it comes to what we knit with and I think we should be aware of where that comes from, if you are not happy with the information provided or you think the product is less than what it states then do make the seller aware of that. Sometimes the buyer is more discerning than the seller – not something I assert in this case, but if and when I get that reply, I will be sure to let you know the wool origins.

So…the swatches are now whirring in the machine…how’s this for live blogging?

I washed at 30 degrees as the bands suggest. I have lessened the spin cycle and I am using a name brand, non bio washing liquid.

But in addition to the swatches there is another item! Remember those washing powder ads, the ones with all the nasty stains on the clothing that the boffins are going to wash? To give the wool a real test, I knit up this hat in the Jarol – very hastily and with little care and then made a right mess of it (all for the purposes of getting a blog out…do forgive me!)

Will it get the stains out at 30 degrees… will the swatches survive the machine wash?

All this and more on the subject of washable wools next time!

In the Loop 3.5

Published by louise

Last week I had a really enjoyable couple of days at the In the Loop 3.5 Conference here in Shetland. I am not going to abstract the whole thing (I believe there will be a special edition on Textiles next year, which will do that for you), but I really wanted to share with you one or two of the stand out speakers.

Organised by the Knitting Reference Library at the University of Southampton, the theme of the conference was on making connections – knitting means more than one thing and we make connections to it in vast, myriad ways from fashion, art, design, style, historical, geographical, connections with time and space, emotional connections…the list is infinite.

It was so wonderful to see such a broad and varied list of speakers from academics, graduates, textile artists, designers and even non-textile orientated persons! Wonderful too was it to sit in the company of so many delegates most of whom were clicking away on their needles!

(although my Gillean hat didn’t grow too much, I was taking a few notes too!)

I was excited to hear from Sylvia Dow that she was commissioned to write a play for a Stellar Quines theatre project about knitting. Set in Hawick, in the Scottish Borders, the play concentrates on female voices intertwined with a rich history in textiles as well as songs, tales and mythology. I loved that the backbone of Sylvia’s work and research came from setting up a knitting group in Hawick – bringing women together and hearing their own stories and connections with knitting.

As someone who detests the connotations of knitting as a granny hobby, or something easy or twee, I often think, “Yeah? Try deciphering a pattern, idiot *or insert chosen adjective here*”

Patterns definitely have their own language and that was the topic of Kandy Diamond’s paper. She had used the Knitting Reference Library to bring examples of how patterns had evolved over the decades – from The Lady’s Book of Knitting (1884 (and which can be viewed online here)), which had scant instructions indeed; through to the introduction of abbreviations for instructions, to the pattern sheets of the 70s and 80s with dense text and perhaps more onus on image than clearly set out information.

You can’t really mention patterns without thinking Elizabeth Zimmerman, who broke the mould with her conversational patterns – I just returned The Opinionated Knitter back to the library and her patterns sort of relax the eye when reading them!

Kandy’s research was really interesting showing that 70% of people she surveyed were often put off by pattern instructions. I have to say, that in the past many a pattern I have had to abandon or try to write out in a better format – thankfully my favourite designers do not have that problem… probably why they are my favourites!

so, yeah…you numpties who say knitting is for maiden aunts, knitting has a terminology that needs decoding – so until you can ktbl, yo, sl1, k1, PSSO, C4L or CDD you can bind right off, ok!

Another paper I really enjoyed was by Deryn Relph, a textile designer who has her finger on the pulse of colour and trend. Here she was looking at the inspiration behind the knitted home. We have seen so many knit-influenced designs for the home, from Fair Isle and knit-printed fabric in soft furnishings, to the wonderful cabled furniture of Claire Anne O’Brien.

Deryn’s own inspirations come from archive patterns of the 1970s and the vivid colours and groovy patterns are really wonderful – such a sense of nostalgia about them, but they would not look out of place in the most contemporary of homes. I particularly liked the examples from her Button Box collections, inspired by a precious treasure of her grandma’s buttons. I think when thinking about connections with knitting the mosts resonant for me is the connection to other people and emotional connections with who or what inspires you to create.

I have to say that the star speaker for me was Annemor Sundbø – I had happened upon her book, Knitting in Art, last year and I was really captivated by her story. After purchasing a ‘shoddy’ factory – where old woolens were recycled into mattress and duvet fillings – in the 80s near Kristiansand, Norway, Annemor found a precious treasure trove in the remnants of knitted garments found in the rag bins.

An expert on Norwegian knitting, Annemor uses her ragpile to unravel a cultural history and form a picture of the lives of the people who knitted and wore these garments, their inspirations and their history.

Annemor brought a wonderful array of examples from her rag pile and it was both one of the most amusing and interesting lectures of the whole conference.

I was also so impressed by the work of Winchester School of Art graduate Alex Pengelly, particularly her work using John Arbon British wool. Emily Watts also used British wool in her graduate collection, which was inspired by her interest in the fragments of garments of polar explorer’s clothing in museum collections: her images from a trip to Svalbard where also really powerful.

A really wonderful event and thanks to In the Loop and Hazel Hughson at Shetland Arts for organizing such a brilliant and inspiring event. I came out of there with a new idea beginning to take seed in my brain due to all those instances of knitting and connections…

…how many connections can you make in relation to your own knitting?

Ebb

Published by louise

Before showing you my newest favourite knitted garment, I know you are dying to know who won the contest for the Tin Can Knits ebook.

We draw winners old school at Casa KnitBritish!

My glamorous assistant drew from the hat

…..and the winner is……

Congrats Susan! I have passed on your details to Emily so you can get your e-book and start knitting your windswept socks!!

Thanks to everyone who commented – I was really interested to hear your favourite UK wools & dyers.

More wonderfulness to give away soon!

Today we went over to my mother-island to…visit my mother. After a nice lunch of (locally produced) sausages we dug out a couple of items that my knitting hands were itching to get a hold of: My Nannie’s jumper board and hank winder. Both are in need of a good clean and a bit of care, but I will blog on my wool-related heirlooms soon.

While we were there we took the chance (when the mist lifted and the drizzle stopped) to photograph Ebb, my version of Estuary, from the Handmade in the UK book.

I absolutely adore it. It is a little longer than the pattern as I went up a needle size – I am from Shetland – I need a shawl I can wrap around and around and around and this is it!

Just look at the depth of colour in the Old Maiden Aunt Corriedale! Truly beautiful. A beautiful pattern and a really lovely yarn: a soft “woolly” texture (I know! it *is* wool, but you guys know what I mean!) and colour that is so multi-faceted and mouthwatering.

I pinned out the pattern so that the ripples on the bottom undulate and there are peaks to the little waves along the top edge

I am already planning a second Estuary in a lustrous wool, like Titus – imagine the shine on the waves!

I am so happy with it, I shall even allow the double chin close up shot!

Hwaarl

Published by louise

I have become a bit of a square knitter. Not the boring kind of square…knitting is never boring!

I have been using up my odds and ends for squares and I have also been knitting squares for the Vivid Blanket.

When I received my first delivery from Foula Wool – neat little, springy, soft 25g cakes – they were just begging to be played with in a fun way. I also had a few other Shetland ends, from Jamieson & Smith and Shetland Organics – these weren’t really enough for much, but my imagination bubbled and so began Hwaarl, using a trinity of Shetland wools!

Taking my inspiration from the POP Blanket squares I made a few mods to make a larger squares (about 8.5 inches). I love the statement of the colourful original and I knew that the Shetland colours could provide a similar effect.

The Foula Wool has lovely characteristics and its a lovely plump yarn, but, of course, I appreciate all the wool in this project! Shetland wool is so deliciously sheepy and I adore the texture. The fact that all the wool was grown and sold in Shetland is also massively wonderful…truly local wonderfulness! You can read more about Foula Wool in a previous blog.
There is also a lovely short film of the Foula sheep being hand clipped. Check out the beautiful, natural colours!

(I have been to a few clips in my youth and I don’t recall such quiet, well behaved sheep!)

Being Shetland wool, it had to have a Shetland name. Hwaarl is the dialect word for that lovely curl of hair at the crown of the head, that’s a good symmetry, I think.

I was sure that I wanted the finished item – 9 squares stitched together – to be part of a cushion OR a wall hanging, one useful and decorative, one just decorative. I thought that I would have made up my mind by now, but I haven’t! Probably a good reason why I finished this ages ago, but haven’t posted a blog…. I was waiting to see if I made a firm decision!

I have made it into a wall hanging – thanks to a bit of driftwood – but that’s not to say it won’t be re-purposed in the future! The best thing about wool is that it is always re-customisable! I might hang it over the bed, or above my fireplace in the kitchen, but it may become a floor cushion yet!

I do like the boldness of the colour, texture and pattern combined – I like to hit all those bases! I got some bright dyed herdwick at woolfest – I think that would look good in a similar project (maybes a cushion, this time!)

As an aside, if you like the Pop Blanket and Tin Can Knits, I do have a little giveaway you might be interested in!

Handmade in the UK

Published by louise

Have I told you, I reeaalllllly love the designs from Tin Can Knits! I am sure might have mentioned it before, once or twice!

The Transatlantic duo have recently published Handmade in the UK, featuring 11 lacy designs by Emily Wessel.

I eagerly anticipated the e-book, but when the actual book dropped through the door last week I was thrilled and it’s has been pored over within an inch of its life.

If it’s TCK you know it’s going to be beautiful, stylish patterns, designed with a finger on the pulse of what knitters want to make AND wear! Add to that a collection designed entirely in British wool or by UK dyers and I feel like throwing a parade!

Inspired by her new home in Scotland and the great standard of local dyers and yarn producers – from Jamieson & Smith, Orkney Angora and Shilasdair, to Uncommon Thread, Juno Fibre Arts, Skein Queen and Old Maiden Aunt – Emily has selected yarns which perfectly accompany and show off her lace designs.

I have already knit two projects from the book and have two WIPs, too.

The Lush cardigan was a special pre-release from the book and I was keen to knit it up for a friend’s baby. I blogged about it here. The wool I used was BFL and a Corriedale & Alpaca blend. The sample from the book is made from yarn by Skein Queen and having seen the cardigan at the Edinburgh Yarn Fest I can confirm that the voluptuous
is a real delight.

I adored knitting the Loch Hat – it was really exciting to watch the pattern emerging. I hadn’t really used lace in a hat like this before and I am so pleased with the result. I decided to squirrel it away for a gift, but it was difficult not to keep it!

The wool I used was merino sport dyed by Helen of Ripples Crafts and I really believe this was a case of the yarn matching the pattern perfectly.
I will need to head back over to the website to get more for the matching mitts!

I have Estuary cast on at the moment and I am using yarn from the suggested yarn-dyer extraordinaire, Old Maiden Aunt! This is a 4ply UK bred Corriedale in the colourway Last Night’s Red Dress!

I will post project pics when blocked, but I think this is my favourite pattern from the book so far. Mostly because it challenges me a bit. I am not the greatest chart reader, but (like ALL these patterns) the pattern is set out beautifully in a really easy to understand way and I almost feel like each chart is a little lesson and then an achievement!
Again, watching the waves and ripples form is a joy to behold!

Another WIP (though a longer term one, I think) are Vivid blanket squares.
The version in the book is in fantastic rainbow colours from Jamieson & Smith and I have seen some lovely versions on Ravelry, particularly the version made by Alexa – Emily’s partner in design.

My British wool in this project has a nice story. My Besty told her aunt about my KnitBritish project and she sent me a massive bag of coloured mohair, spun at Blacker. She bought it on holiday – as she cannot resist a ball of yarn! – but had not knit with it yet and so must have thought my need was greater! Thanks so much to Aunty Joyce!

I like the fuzzy, halo effect of the mohair! It might lack the amazing stitch definition of the Shetland, but it definitely has character! With this pattern I mastered a new cast on, again learning something new with Tin Can Knits!

It is patently clear that Tin Can Knits love design, but they also really seem to care about what we wanna knit and how. From newbies to the most intricate knitters, they really do offer something for everyone and HMUK is no different. Whether you are an old hand at lace or you want to get to grips and gain confidence with your lace knitting, you will find these patterns a joy to knit.

And don’t forget the gems of yarns too. I know it is often tempting to knit patterns in a yarn of your own choice, rather than the ones suggested, but there are so many beautiful UK yarns featured in the book – and lots of great natural and dyed home grown wool besides – you’ve no excuse not to knit British!

If like me you cannot wait to knit the entire book then you should head right on over to their website (it will be the best use of $16 CAD ever!) and treat yourself ooorrrrrrrr you could win yourself one right here!

Emily has kindly offered an e-copy of the book to one of you lucky lovelies!

To enter leave me a comment telling me your favourite pattern from Handmade in the UK and your personal favourite British yarn or dyer

I will close the competition on Monday, 29th July and announce the winner soon after.

Feel free to tweet and facebook, spread it around! Only comments left here will be entered into the giveaway.

Happy Knitting!

Woolfest swag

Published by louise

It feels like yonks since Woolfest, positively yonks.

I have been revisiting my swag and some pictures to refresh my memory.

I think this event must hit all bases, whistles and bells for wool lovers and for me British wool was abundant.

I made my first purchase within ten minutes! We meandered down to wooly knit’s corner.
I had heard lots of lovely things about wool from here, but I had found their old website a bit fussy to navigate and always meant to look again later (it’s much less fussy now, go look after reading this 😉 ) the first thing my hungry, knitting eyes saw was a massive hank of 4ply Hebridean wool – a breed I hadn’t knit and at an amazing price! Given my outsize carrier bag it was clear I’d run out of luggage space with purchase one!

Next visit was to Sky Blue Pink for buttons! I couldn’t get very close to their stall at the Edinburgh Yarn Festival , so I was very pleased to see them here & was VERY controlled & only bought a few! I believe they also have knitting kits using British wool!

After a brilliant rare breeds show, the LovelyFella thought he was “slowing me down”, so took to the coffee & cakes while I really got into the woolfest swing!

I was really keen to add different breeds to my stash (that’s what knitting British is all about!) and so kept my eyes peeled & found Gotland & Jacob/Suffolk Marl from lovely Sheepfold . I love the range on their website & it was so great to see the yarns in the flesh!

Yorkshire Woollybacks had a great range of breeds and… after seeing the fellow in the flesh… I had to buy some plump & sturdy Ryeland DK. I can see this making cosy mitts for winter.

I found the wool clip a little later in the day & was really pleased to find more wool that my stash was lacking. I love the contrast of the BFL & Zwartbles, dark & light, smooth & textured. I do like a feast on all the senses in my yarn, but the wool (I suspect the latter) is very Sheepy scented.

Another couple of ticks off my list at the wool clip was a great “lucky bag” of coloured Herdwick & Swaledale rug wool. As the name suggests this is far from skin softness, but I can just tell this is going to be a wonderful texture in a felted cushion.

I found John Arbon too. I was coveting some socks, but was drawn like a moth to a nnnneeeewwwww yarn! Exmoor sock! This yarn is delightfully lustrous but it feels very strong. The colours are a delight and I adore the lilac,grey smoke.

(Note to self: learn socks!)

One stall I also Pre-planned to visit was Higher Gills Teeswater I love the curly longwools (cannot imagine them tripping their tresses in Shetland, though) and I came across these chaps early into my KnitBritish research and they really went over and above in the woolfestiness – free patterns and a lovely free project bag to carry it home in.
I bought myself some aran and a chunky cushion kit for LovelyFella’s mum.

Yes, I was very happy to see yarns I knew and meet yarns I didn’t, but there were also the infamous yarns!
From the moment I walked in the door I was on the look out for one stall in particular… One shed, in fact!
BaaRamEwe had the best (and award winning) stall in shed-form and it was full to the rafters with TITUS!

I am a sheep & I am firmly jumping on this bandwagon…UK alpaca, Wensleydale & BFL in a beautiful array of colours. It feels like squiding a marshmallow!
I will be earmarking these for gift knits for sure!

There were so many woolly stars at Woolfest, I await next year’s event with relish!

Thanks to the lovliest LovelyFella, Clint, for arranging it all and never looking bored once, even though he was in a marts, surrounded by sheep and wool

ETA: I forgot to mention that the totally amazing WTWTA wool frieze was part of a display by the Materialistics and it blew us away. Totally wonderful and a joy to behold.

Woolfest!!!!!

Published by louise

I will blog when I get home about my woolfest purchases, but I had to do a little post, post-woolfest!

What a wonderful couple of days (amid un-wonderful things happening at home). We travelled from Edinburgh to Carlisle on Thursday & caught the bus to Cockermouth. The rain was pretty torrential at times but did little to dampen our spirits.
After dining on wonderful local fayre at the Trout Hotel, we retired for an early night in woolly anticipation.

The place was amazing! A wool enthusiasts dream – a wonderfully woolly maze of natural & rainbow colours. The woolfest chaps totally surpassed themselves – not only with variety of stall holders but also on food & entertainment.
The biggest credit goes to the LovelyFella who arranged it all & didn’t look too bored!

More Woolfest wonderfulness later, about to leave Carlisle for Edinburgh! I have just been to the post office to Special Delivery my swag home as it took up too much room in the case!
Big hello to all going to Woolfest today! I hope the rain stays off!

Trip down Roslin Glen

Published by louise

My shape of my little Pre-Woolfest trip to Edinburgh has changed due a few dramatic things that happened last week, but I managed a little touristy action today.
Although l lived in Edinburgh & the surrounding areas for years I still love to explore it.
My kindred pal, Maureen, is a tour guide at Roslyn Chapel and seeing as I haven’t been in at least 12 years I was long overdue. Before that though, we took a wander down Roslin Glen.

There are some beautiful trees in this area, but this one was quite breathtaking and possibly the biggest tree in the glen… Well biggest compared to her nearby chum…

I have never seen a branch grow so much that it has planted itself into the ground.

Roslin Glen is a magical place and deserves much exploration. I like the walk down the glen road from Rosewell, which leads you slowly down into the glen. with trees as far as the eye can see you could forget how close you are to Edinburgh.
Had I been a week or so earlier the area would have been abundant with ramsons and bluebells, but there were gems still…

We ended up down at Roslin Castle, an amazing, towering ruin. Down by the river here is one of my favourite contemplative places, but I have never really explored around the base of the castle & bridge … It’s a tad slippy underfoot but a worth the scrabbling.

Once we refreshed with a coffee we went into the chapel, how lucky was I to have my own personal tour guide?
If you have never been to Roslyn it is well worth a visit (& the £9 fee) all the staff are so knowledgable and they have a real fervour for what they do.
The place has a real atmosphere – no matter what you believe about the place & its history, it is a fascinating and beautiful place.
I was sad not to have net William, the famous chapel cat…he was nestled between two visitors on the pews, listening to a talk!

Afterwards, mine guide took me to her other place of work at the local studies library – a busman’s holiday, but I do love a library! It’s a great resource there, they have access to some amount of Midlothian history! Maureen told me she loves playing detective and piecing together information requests from the public! If you have links to the area or are interested in local or family history this is a great place to start your search!

A long day, but so pleasant to find comfort in the places I know and love and discovering new in the old

(Please excuse any spelling, grammar, et al… It is 2am & I blog from my phone in a dark room!)